Most heat loss starts at the top
Attic Air Sealing & Insulation in Green Bay, WI
Seal first, then insulate, so the heat stays in the house and off the roof.
- Free on-site estimates
- Written quote showing foam type, depth and R-value
- Moisture, roof leaks and old insulation checked first
Sealing the Attic Floor Comes First
Attic air sealing and insulation is the job that makes the biggest difference in most Green Bay houses. Warm air rises and pushes through every gap in the top-floor ceiling: around plumbing stacks, wiring holes, light boxes, the attic hatch and the tops of interior walls. In January that air melts the snow on the roof from below. The water runs down to the cold eaves, freezes and backs up under the shingles as an ice dam.
Why more insulation alone falls short
Loose fill and batts slow heat but let air through. Piling more fluff on an unsealed ceiling helps, but not as much as you would expect, because the warm air keeps moving through it. We seal the bypasses first with foam, caulk and rigid blocking, then add insulation on top.
How deep to go
The Insulation Institute's summary of Wisconsin's code lists R-49 for ceilings in Climate Zone 6, which includes Brown County. HomeGuide rates blown fiberglass at R-2.2 to R-2.9 per inch and cellulose at R-3.1 to R-3.8, so R-49 takes well over a foot of material. Many older attics around the city have 3 to 6 inches that has settled or been crushed during past work.
Ventilation and bath fans
A sealed, well-insulated attic still needs a path for outside air at the eaves and out at the ridge or roof vents. We install baffles so the new insulation does not block soffit vents, and we check that bath fans and dryer vents run outside instead of dumping moist air into the attic, where it frosts on the nails.
What an Attic Job Covers
Air sealing, insulation and the details that keep the attic dry.
Bypass sealing
Top plates, plumbing and wiring holes, chases and light boxes sealed before insulation goes in.
Hatch and pull-down stairs
Weatherstripping and an insulated cover so the opening is not a chimney for warm air.
Baffles at the eaves
Keeps soffit vents open so the roof deck stays cold and dry.
Blown-in cellulose or fiberglass
Loose fill to the target depth across the attic floor.
Foam in tight spots
Spray foam in kneewalls, slopes and shallow eaves where fill will not reach full depth.
Fan and vent checks
Bath fans and dryer vents routed outdoors, not into the attic.

Published Attic Insulation & Air Sealing Costs
| Job | Range and source |
|---|---|
| Attic insulation, average job | $1,000 to $2,700, about $1,800 average (HomeGuide) |
| Air sealing | $350 to $3,000 (HomeGuide) |
| Blown-in, attic | $0.90 to $2.40 per sq ft (HomeGuide attic guide) |
| Spray foam on the attic floor | $1,100 to $6,800 (HomeGuide) |
| Spray foam on the roof deck | $1,500 to $9,000 (HomeGuide) |
| Spray foam, attic (existing home) | $2,500 to $12,000 (Fixr) |
| Old insulation removal | $1 to $2 per sq ft (HomeGuide) |
These are national numbers from HomeGuide's January 2026 attic guide and Fixr's 2025 spray foam guide. How much sealing the attic needs, the depth, access and any removal change the price. We look at your attic and put the actual price on a written estimate.
How an Attic Job Goes
1. Inspect the attic
We measure existing depth, look for leaks, frost, mold and venting problems and find the bypasses.
2. Quote in writing
Sealing, baffles, insulation depth and R-value, and any removal are listed separately.
3. Seal the ceiling
Bypasses are sealed and the hatch is weatherstripped and insulated.
4. Insulate to depth
Loose fill goes in level to the depth on your quote, with depth markers you can check.

Why Choose Us for Attic Air Sealing & Insulation
Seal before we blow
Sealing is listed on its own line, so you can see it is part of the job.
Depth you can verify
Rulers stapled to the trusses show the finished depth.
Vents kept clear
Baffles keep eave vents open after the attic is filled.
Attic Air Sealing & Insulation Questions
Will attic insulation stop ice dams?
Sealing the ceiling and adding insulation removes the main cause, which is warm air reaching the roof deck. Gutters, roof shape and venting also play a part, and we look at those during the visit.
Should I remove the old insulation first?
Usually not, if it is dry and clean. We add on top after sealing. Insulation that is wet, moldy, full of droppings or blocking the air sealing work should come out, and we price that separately.
Is blown-in or spray foam better for my attic?
For an open attic floor, sealed and then blown in is usually the better value. Foam fits sloped ceilings, kneewalls and spots too shallow for loose fill.
What R-value should a Green Bay attic have?
The Wisconsin code summary lists R-49 for ceilings in Zone 6. That is a sensible target when you add insulation to an older attic.

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Get an Attic Air Sealing & Insulation Estimate
Send a photo of your attic or any ice along the eaves and we will plan the visit.